The History of Newland

Newland village is set on the western side of the Royal Forest of Dean.  The name Nova Terra or New Land commonly referred to the clearings made in the forest for new cultivation, incursions into the large tracts of land owned by the Crown which valued the area for the minerals, food supply and timber and provided the king with his major occupation: the recreation of the hunt.

These clearings were achieved as much by stealth as by official processes, but with King John in financial distress, he ordered his chief forester, Hugh de Neville, "to make our profit by selling woods and demising assarts".  Licensed scattered settlements emerged at Highmeadow, Ashridge, Redbrook and Clearwell, and most significantly for Newland, one called 'Welinton" ("the farmstead by the willows" - "Spout Farm") where a moated "manor house" was later built and which survived until the 18th Century.

A view from the hill looking over the ancient village of Newland

Visitors to the "Cathedral of the Forest" often ask why such a large church in such a small village?

From the start Crown and Court shaped the history of Newland and, as the name suggests, NEW land is a late development.  Neighbouring villages Staunton and St. Briavels were well established with fine stone Romanesque churches long before Robert of Wakering built a church on the hillside above the Blackbrook and Redbrook valleys in the second decade of the thirteenth century. The essential factor for these hamlets was the swathe of newly available wide fertile fields that stretched from Highmeadow around the hillsides down to the Valley Brook, and these were the Nova Terra, the new lands.

Sunrise over the fields near the ancient village of Newland The ancient church now known as the Cathedral of the Forest in Newland

But while the name was adopted for the parish, the village that evolved around the church was known for centuries as "Churchend”.  The church builder, Robert of Wakering, King John's "beloved clerk", was the trusted agent of Hugh de Neville.  The church probably reflected his master's policy.  He substantially improved the castle at St. Briavels, the administrative centre for the Constable of the forest, and created a manor in Newland to be held with the castle as part of a royal estate.

Early rectors were royal appointees, as the office was a royal plum bestowed on men of substance - William Gifford, for example, was later Archbishop of York.

The Church Lynch Gate and Village Pub in Newland A close up of the clock on the ancient church now known as the Cathedral of the Forest in Newland

King Edward 1's favours caused dismay when he granted the rector, John of London, a sudden bounty of tithe revenue charged on 2,000 acres of ascertained illegal assarts from various forest parishes, but dismay turned to outrage when Edward then transferred the church in total, with all its revenues, to the Bishop of Llandaff in 1305.

The Newland tithe barn was raided, forest clergy hampered and harassed and the Bishop's men were themselves in turn summoned to court - However, the King's will prevailed.  No doubt the chantry altar dedicated to King Edward's service in the church heard fulsome and grateful prayer, and there is no doubt that these enrichments provided the means to rebuild the church to its present large dimensions.

There was an aura of prosperity at Churchend from the very start which was initially derived from agriculture and iron ore; it was later compounded with coal, tanning and even shipping.  Wealthy family estates developed about the Nova Terra and their patronage nurtured the development of the village.  Robert and Joan Greyndour founded and endowed a valued chantry school (15th Century), then after the reformation an ex-pupil, Edward Bell, re-endowed the village with a Grammar School.

The old yew tree in the village churchyard in Newland Steps into the churchyard in the ancient village of Newland

In 1615 William Jones, on his death bed, entrusted the Haberdashers company with a stupendous £5,000 for the parish of Newland, "for the poor there".  The school house building and the William Jones almshouses - with the adjacent “Lecturage” to house the administrator of the almshouses - survive and importantly define this moment in history, and many hope that the four hundred year contribution to village life made by the Jones almshouse will be allowed to continue.

The village prospered throughout the Middle Ages; archives provide us with names of the early inhabitants and it impresses how many topographical names current until the last century go back to those mediaeval residents.  From the 15th Century an unofficial market was set up in the churchyard, seizing the opportunity presented by large congregations gathered there on feast days.  The clergy protested that the butchers sold their meat during the service.  Court records tell of a community where a wife was sold for sixpence in a pub, a couple were burnt as witches, and a successful case was prosecuted against a woman who had slandered a ghost.

A doorway in to the Lecturage which still survives in the ancient village of Newland The ‘Miners Brass’ which depicts a helmet, crest and figure of a mediaeval miner of the Forest of Dean with a hod and pick in his hand and candlestick in his mouth

The church itself comprises a west tower, nave with five arches, adjoining very large north and south aisles, south porch and chapels.  There are many interesting monuments within the church including an effigy of Jenkin Wyrall, Forester of Fee (d. 1457), which shows details of the hunting costumes of that period.  Also within the church is an old brass engraving known as "the Miners Brass" which depicts a helmet, crest and figure of a mediaeval miner of the Forest of Dean with a hod and pick in his hand and candlestick in his mouth.  This has become one of the "symbols" of the Forest of Dean and at just one foot high, has been adopted as the badge of the local Freeminer Brewery.

The village as we now see it came into focus in the 18th Century and is often described as "like a cathedral close".  It was transformed by the Probyn family whose prestige was established when Edmund Probyn was knighted and later made Chief Baron of the Exchequer.  From the late 17th Century onwards the Probyn family rebuilt at Spout Farm, the Ostrich, the old village shop, the Dark (Dower) House and probably the Tan House.

The old yew tree in the village churchyard in Newland Sunset over the ancient village of Newland

The village was radically transformed when the lanes and cottages on the hillside south west of the church were cleared to build the 18th Century mansion and garden outlook of Newland House (later sadly altered).  At that time Newland was described as "one of finest villages in the county" and today, inhabitants and visitors alike standing in the huge churchyard agree that remarkably little has happened since to dispel that view.